Growing cannabis step by step

· Index 1. ·The cannabis plant 2. Botanical classification of cannabis 3. Classification of cannabis under international law imposed by governments 4. Classification of cannabis based on the genus of the seeds 5. Classification of cannabis based on its dependence and independence on photoperiod for flowering 6. ·Substances found in cannabis 7. Classification of cannabis based on flavors 8. Classification of cannabis based on terpene (aroma) content 9. General characteristics of cannabis varieties 10. Where to grow: Indoor/Outdoor 11. ·Choice of varieties 12. ·Seeds (sexual or cloned) versus cuttings 13. ·Substrates 14. Flowerpots 15. ·Grow bags for cannabis cultivation 16. Irrigation water: The importance of quality 17. ·Step-by-step indoor cannabis cultivation from seed ·Seed storage ·Pregermination ·Germination ·Seedling •Rooting/vegetative growth ·Pre-flowering ·Bloom ·Harvest ·Drying ·Cured ·Storage 18. ·Cannabis cultivation step by step from cuttings 19. Outdoor cannabis cultivation from sexual or cloned seeds 20. Indoor cannabis cultivation of mother plants to obtain cuttings 21. Indoor pest control 22. Outdoor pest control 23. Cannabis plants intended for indoor/outdoor seed production 24. Grafted cannabis plants 25. Organic, organomineral, semi-organic and inorganic or synthetic fertilizers in cannabis cultivation 26. Cannabis varieties in cold climates 1. THE CANNABIS PLANT Cannabis is a dioecious flowering plant, meaning that some plants are male and others female. Hermaphroditism also occurs, usually in strains with low THC content (<1%) due to poor growing conditions. It is less common in potent strains (high THC). Male plants produce pollen and mature approximately one month earlier than female plants . Female plants capture pollen on their stigma and, once pollinated, produce seeds ·Hermaphrodite plants produce both male and female flowers on the same individual • Anatomy of the cannabis plant 2. BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION OF CANNABIS · Botanists classify cannabis, as a member of the plant kingdom, based on the qualities they find in the plant: ·Kingdom: Plantae ·Division: Magnoliopsida ·Order: Rosebushes ·Family: Cannabaceae ·Genre: Cannabis ·Species: Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis 3. CLASSIFICATION OF CANNABIS UNDER INTERNATIONAL LAW IMPOSED BY GOVERNMENTS Legally , all cannabis is classified as “Cannabis Sativa L.”, which in turn is ordered into three varieties - which in turn can be called “Landrace” or “Pure” - plus the hybrids resulting from the cross between them: ·Cannabis Sativa (Cannabis Sativa variety Sativa) ·Cannabis Indica (Cannabis Sativa variety Indica) ·Cannabis Ruderalis (Cannabis Sativa variety Ruderalis) ·Hybrids ·Landrace: These are native cannabis varieties from a specific location that have never been crossed with any other cannabis variety, thus preserving their unaltered genotype. They are the basis of many hybrids. ·Pura: ·These are “Landrace” cannabis varieties that are taken from their country of origin and grown in other places without genetic modifications, but with the phenotypic modifications typical of being grown in other areas 4. CLASSIFICATION OF CANNABIS ACCORDING TO THE GENUS OF THE SEEDS · Cannabis seeds, depending on their sex, are classified as “Regular” and “Feminized” ·Regular Seeds: They are bred from a male and a female parent plant and can produce either male or female plants. In other words, they are all seeds that follow the normal reproductive process and have not been artificially or forcibly sexually modified to produce only female plants. ·Theoretically, they produce 50% female plants and 50% male plants, although this proportion can vary depending mainly on environmental conditions ·Feminized Seeds: ·They are developed by reversing a female genetic with STS (Silver thiosulfate), which guarantees a subsequent generation of seeds free of male genes ·They guarantee a production of female plants in 99% of cases 5. CLASSIFICATION OF CANNABIS ACCORDING TO ITS DEPENDENCE OR INDEPENDENCE ON PHOTOPERIOD FOR FLOWERING · Cannabis varieties, based on their dependence or independence from the photoperiod to flower, are classified as: “Photoperiodic” and “Autoflowering” or “Automatic” PHOTOPERIODIC CANNABIS PLANTS: ·These are those that depend on the number of hours of daylight to enter the flowering phase ·In indoor cultivation, the optimal cycle for flowering is 12-12 (12 hours of light - 12 hours of darkness) ·In outdoor cultivation, most photoperiod varieties will naturally enter flowering when there are ten or more hours of darkness ·Among the photoperiodic cannabis plants are: ·Sativas ·Indicas ·Hybrids ·Sativa x Sativa: Crossing of two Sativa varieties ·Indica x Indica: Cross of two Indica varieties ·Sativa x Indica: Hybrid with dominant Sativa qualities ·Indica x Sativa: Hybrid with dominant Indica qualities ·Fast Version ·They are the result of a cross between a photoperiod variety and an autoflowering variety ·They are 100% photodependent ·They have a fast flowering time 6. SUBSTANCES FOUND IN CANNABIS Cannabis plants contain numerous substances, mostly “ cannabinoids ”, “ terpenes ” and “ flavonoids ”, resulting from this combination in specific aromas, and medicinal and psychoactive properties on the human body · Cannabinoids: ·They lack aroma and flavor They work with the body's endogenous cannabinoid receptors (CB1 and CB2) to produce a variety of results, as these are sensitive to the cannabinoids in cannabis, which interfere with or alter the body's natural chemical messages: CB1: CB1 receptors are concentrated in the brain and regulate areas related to mood, memory, appetite, and movement. They react to psychoactive cannabinoids such as 9-THC (9-tetrahydrocannabinol), 8-THC (8-tetrahydrocannabinol), THCV (tetrahydrocannabivarin), and CBN (cannabinol). CB2: CB2 receptors are found mainly in muscles, bones, liver, and the immune system. When activated, they tend to provide beneficial effects. They react to non-psychoactive cannabinoids such as CBD (cannabidiol), CBE (cannabielsoin), CBC (cannabichromene), CBV (cannabivarin), CBL (cannabicycol), CBT (cannabitriol), CBR (cannabiripsol), CBND (cannabinoidiol), CBNV (cannabinchromevarin), CBGV (cannabigerovarin), CNCN (cannabichromanon), and CBLV (cannabifuran). · Terpenes: ·They are the main organic components of the resins and essential oils of cannabis ·Chemically they consist of a structure made up of repeating units of isoprene (5 carbons) ·They give the organoleptic characteristics (aroma and flavor) of cannabis plants and provide them with various therapeutic properties Cannabis plants can contain more than 200 different terpenes, but there are approximately 30 that are consistently found in high concentrations in most varieties. The terpenes found in cannabis are: “ monoterpenes ” and “ sesquiterpenes ”: ·“ Monoterpenes” are made up of two isoprene units (10 carbons), and the following are mainly found in cannabis plants: Camphor Citral Limonene Pulegone Borneol Cuminol Linalool Sabineno Camphene Estragol Nerol Thymol Careno Eucalyptol Menthol Terpinene Carvacrol Eugenol Myrcene Tuyanol Carveol Felandreno Myrtenol Tuyeno Carvone Fenchol Ocimeno Vanillin Cineol Geraniol Pinene Cimeno Lavandulol Piperitol · Sesquiterpenes are composed of three isoprene units (15 carbons), and the following are mainly found in cannabis plants: Aromadendrano Cedrano Humulen Santalol Bergamotene Cedrol Isocalamen Selineno Bisabolano Cyperenol Isocedrane Sesquicarene Bisabolol Cubebano Nardosinano Sesquicineol Bulneseno Curcumin Neoliacin Sesquisabiana Cadineno Elemano Nerolidol Tanacetol Caryophyllan Farnese Pachuleno Valenciano Carotol Farnesilo Pachulol Viridifloreno Carveol Guaiol Salviol Zinciberene · Flavonoids: They are partly responsible for the taste and aroma of marijuana, and also for the pigments that are not green, although they are only visible when they are not masked by chlorophyll. They react synergistically with cannabinoids, creating aromas and flavors ·Cannabis mainly contains about a dozen flavonoids, which represent around 10% of the mixture of chemical compounds in these plants: Anthocyanin Betasitosterol Apigenin Quercetin Cannaflavin A Vitexin Kaempferol Catechine Cannaflavin B Isovitexin Luteolin Orientina 7. CLASSIFICATION OF CANNABIS ACCORDING TO FLAVORS 8. CLASSIFICATION OF CANNABIS BASED ON TERPENES (AROMAS) ·In terms of terpenes, cannabis plants are the sum of the various terpenes that interact within them to create characteristic aromas and therapeutic benefits Seed suppliers provide the aromatic profile of their strains. This allows for a rough understanding of their sensory complexity and therapeutic benefits, as a particular terpene mix can alter the predictable impacts of psychoactive and physiological cannabinoids. For example, linalool, myrcene, and nerodilol create a sedative high, while mixtures with pinene or limonene make one feel more energetic. When looking for marijuana bursting with flavors and aromas, you should opt for cannabis varieties with an aromatic profile rich in sesquiterpenes, since most of the monoterpenes will have disappeared during the drying of the buds. 9. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF PHOTOPERIODIC CANNABIS VARIETIES ·CANNABIS SATIVA ·These are original varieties from equatorial zones of America (mainly Colombia, Mexico and Jamaica), Asia (Thailand) and Africa, where climates are warm, temperatures are mild, environments are humid and periods of intense and long sunlight The “genotypic” differences between them are due to the fact that the plants adapt to the specific geographical conditions of each region to survive and, as a result, have taken on certain forms. Some of these varieties have developed thin, very tall stems to compete with other plants for sunlight. Others have developed a less compact structure, with sparse foliage and elongated leaves, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture, the appearance of pathogenic fungi, withstand strong winds, reduce transpiration, and ensure good ventilation on hot days. ·Morphological and cultivation characteristics ·They have a long growth phase. ·They reach very great heights (3-5 meters on average, although some varieties can reach more than 6 meters in height) ·They produce knots with greater spacing than the Indicas ·They produce lateral branches that extend and grow upwards ·They grow a lot and quickly during pre-flowering and the first week of flowering (they can grow approximately 100-300% of their height, or even more) The leaves are long and narrow, with thin, pointed leaflets (fingers) of a light green color (indicative of a relatively low amount of chlorophyll). Some varieties develop up to 13 fingers. They are short-day (photoperiodic) plants, so they can remain in the vegetative phase for several years with 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness. This characteristic is used to cultivate mother plants and obtain cuttings or clones. In indoor cultivation, flowering begins 10-15 days after the change in photoperiod (from 18/6 to 12/12), and in outdoor cultivation, 35-50 days after the days begin to lengthen (in the Northern Hemisphere, flowering begins between the end of July and mid-August). Their flowering period ranges from 60-90 days, longer than that of Indica varieties. ·The flowers – unlike Indica varieties where the flowers cluster around the nodes – begin by clustering at their nodes and then spread along the stems ·They produce long, soft buds ·Smell and taste: They usually have a light and pleasant aroma because their buds are rich in stimulating and euphoric terpenes such as pinene and limonene. ·Effects: ·They have a high concentration of THC and low percentages of CBD ·Their effect is cerebral. They produce a high that is felt in the head. ·They increase energy and creativity levels, so they are suitable for smoking during the day ·CANNABIS INDICA These varieties originate from locations near the equator (around 30-50 degrees), such as Turkey, Lebanon, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, and southern China, where the hours of sunlight and darkness fluctuate throughout the year, resulting in very dry weather until October, followed by a season of high humidity with constant rain due to the monsoon season. The genotypic differences between them are due to the fact that the plants adapt to the specific geographical conditions of each region to survive and, as a result, have developed particular forms. Some of these varieties have very large leaves in order to absorb as much light as possible. Others produce different shades of red and purple in their leaves when it is very cold (it is believed that this is a way of reflecting harmful wavelengths at very low temperatures). ·Morphological and cultivation characteristics ·They have a shorter growth phase than Sativas ·They reach an approximate height of 1-1.5 meters ·They produce nodes at regular intervals along the stem, with less spacing than Sativas They tend to produce more lateral branches than Sativa varieties, resulting in bushier, wider, and thicker plants, resembling small fir trees. ·They grow and gain height very quickly during pre-flowering and the first week of flowering (they can grow up to approximately 50-75% of their height, or even more) The leaves are short, wide and robust, of a dark green tone (a sign of the high chlorophyll content of these leaves, which accelerates the flowering cycle) and usually have up to 7-9 leaflets (fingers) They are short-day (photoperiodic) plants, so they can remain in the vegetative phase for several years with 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness. This characteristic is used to cultivate mother plants and obtain cuttings or clones. •In “indoor cultivation” it begins to flower 8-10 days after the change in photoperiod (18/6 to 12/12) and in “outdoor cultivation” 25-35 days after the night hours begin to lengthen (In the northern hemisphere flowering begins between mid and late July. Its flowering period ranges between 45-60 days, shorter than in Sativa varieties. ·The flowers – unlike Sativa varieties which start by clustering at their nodes and then expand along the stems – cluster around the nodes of the female plant's trunk, forming dense and compact clusters, much more so than those of Cannabis Sativa varieties, leaving little free space between one cluster and another (internodal spaces) ·They produce hard, heavy buds ·Smell and taste: They usually have a deep and thick aroma because their buds are rich in sedative sesquiterpenes such as myrcene (which can make up 50-80% of the total terpene composition), humulene, and caryophyllene. ·Effects: They have a high concentration of CBD and low percentages of THC They produce a highly physical (relaxing and calming) and hypnotic effect that helps induce sleep, so they are meant to be smoked at night. Due to their strong sedative effect on the body, they are primarily used to counteract anxiety, spasms, insomnia, inflammation, and physical pain. ·HYBRIDS ·The hybrids currently on the market can be classified as follows: ·Conventional hybrids •Fast-flowering hybrids (not crossed with autoflowering varieties) ·IBL hybrids (“inbred or consanguineous line”) ·S1 Hybrids ·Bx hybrids or backcrosses ·CONVENTIONAL HYBRIDS · They are the result of crosses between Sativa and Indica plants A variety described as “Sativa x Indica” is a hybrid with dominant Sativa qualities. However, it has aspects of both families. A variety described as “Indica x Sativa” is a hybrid with dominant Indica qualities. ·F1 hybrid seed: ·It is the result of a cross between two first-generation parental varieties ·They are plants similar to the first generation and as a result of assimilating the best properties of both plants from which they originate, they are stable, uniform, strong, robust and resistant ·They usually produce large, dense, high-quality buds ·Subsequent generations are symbolized as F2, F3, F4,…etc… ·FAST FLOWERING HYBRIDS (NOT CROSSED WITH AUTOFLOWERING PLANTS) · They are the result of selecting fast-flowering varieties ·They are not crossed with autoflowering plants ·They are photodependent ·IBL HYBRIDS (“ENDOGAMOUS OR CONSANGUINEOUS LINE”) They are created by crossing two different inbred parental lines obtained through generations of inbreeding. That is, they result from the cross of two homozygous parents (the specific gene from each parent is different, but in both cases the two copies – alleles – of each gene are identical). For example: “When crossing a homozygous plant that has two identical copies of the gene for “green color” with another homozygous plant that has two identical copies of the gene for “purple color,” the resulting F1 hybrid plants will be heterozygous for this gene, meaning they contain two different copies, one green and one purple. ·They are stable, uniform, robust and resilient varieties They grow much faster than conventional hybrids and are more productive. ·They produce high levels of THC (or CBD) and diverse and intense aromas and flavors · IBL F1 Hybrids ·They are the result of a cross between two first-generation inbred parental varieties ·Subsequent generations are symbolized as F2, F3, F4,…etc… ·S1 HYBRIDS ·It is the first filial generation of a cross between a female plant and itself (self-fertilization) ·These seeds are very similar to the female plant that is to be replicated ·All seeds are female ·Subsequent generations produced by self-fertilization are symbolized as S2, S3, S4,…etc… ·Bx HYBRIDS OR BACKCROSSES ·They are the result of crossing an F1 hybrid with one of the original plants ·FAST VERSION ·These cannabis varieties are obtained by crossing a photoperiod variety with an autoflowering variety ·They are photoperiodic plants because the “dominant gene” will always be “photodependent”, however the autoflowering variety influences flowering and maturation to be faster, and very slightly in the phenotype, so they retain the aroma and flavor of their parent genetics ·Its flowering is shortened by one or two weeks compared to the original genetics, with resin production being somewhat lower They can be grown both indoors and outdoors. In direct soil they reach a larger size than in pots or grow bags, since the more space the root mass has to develop, the larger the plant can grow. There are as many types of Fast Version as there are varieties of photoperiodic lenses. AUTOFLOWERING OR AUTOMATIC CANNABIS PLANTS • “Autoflowering” or “automatic” varieties are those that do not depend on the duration of the photoperiod to change from the vegetative to the reproductive stage, but rather begin to flower when they complete a fixed period of vegetation and have reached sexual maturity ·Depending on the variety, this period ranges from 30 to 45 days ·Among the autoflowering cannabis plants are ·Ruderalis ·Autoflowering sativas ·Autoflowering indicas ·Autoflowering Hybrids ·Super autoflowering · CANNABIS RUDELARIS ·These varieties originate from northern regions of the Earth, far from the equator (Poland, Southern Siberia, China), where climatic conditions are hostile but viable (short days, extreme cold, little sunlight, unsuitable humidity) The “genotypic” differences between them are due to the fact that the plants adapt to the specific geographical conditions of each region to survive and, as a result, have developed particular forms. Some of these varieties have developed short, wide leaves in order to absorb as much light as possible in a short time. Other varieties, however, have developed long, narrow leaves to avoid moisture accumulation, but all of them have evolved to flower regardless of the amount of sunlight they receive. · Morphological and cultivation characteristics ·They have a very short growth phase (14-20 days) ·They reach a height of between 30-60 centimeters ·They have a thick stem and a robust and compact vegetative structure The leaves are quite thin and light green. They only develop 3-5 fingers. They begin to flower as soon as they reach sexual maturity (20-30 days after germination), regardless of changes in the light cycle. Their flowering period lasts 30-35 days. These varieties cannot be propagated by cuttings, as the automatic flowering process does not allow for the cultivation of mother plants. The flowers cluster around the nodes of the female plant's trunk, forming small buds. ·They produce reduced harvests ·They have a resilient genetic makeup that allows them to be grown almost anywhere · “Ruderalis genetics” has revolutionized marijuana cultivation by revealing that photoperiod varieties could flower automatically when crossed with ruderalis plants, giving rise to the autoflowering cannabis phenomenon. ·Smell and taste: They tend to have less flavor than sativa and indica, and offer less terpene diversity. ·Effects: They contain little THC (approximately 0.3%), so smoking them barely produces a high. ·They are rich in CBD, a non-psychoactive cannabinoid that produces relaxing, calming, and hypnotic effects · AUTOFLOWERING SAtivas ·They are the result of crossing sativa varieties with autoflowering varieties They are easy to grow. Ideal for outdoor cultivation •Production and performance are satisfactory Regarding autoflowering indicas, they have a taller and more slender stature, their leaves are long and thin with a light green color, their root system expands less (therefore requiring more porous substrates), and their life cycle is longer. They have an energetic, stimulating, and psychoactive effect · AUTOFLOWERING INDICAS ·They are the result of crossing Indica varieties with autoflowering varieties They are easy to grow. Suitable for outdoor cultivation Regarding autoflowering sativas, they are shorter, more branched, have wide, intense dark green leaves, and a larger, more compact root system. ·Its aroma and flavor are pronounced · AUTOFLOWERING HYBRIDS ·They are the result of crossing sativa, indica and ruderalis varieties They are easy to grow. Suitable for outdoor cultivation. ·They are hardy and robust plants · F1 hybrid autoflowering plants ·They are stable and uniform plants, large in size (they grow very fast) and very branched ·Recommended for outdoor cultivation They produce large, resinous, very aromatic buds with a greater or lesser number of leaves depending on the variety. ·They provide good concentrations of terpenes and cannabinoids ·SUPER AUTOFLOWERING ·They are the result of crossing “sativa genetics” with “autoflowering genetics” ·They are autoflowering plants, develop many lateral branches, grow very vigorously (they can reach 1.5-2.5 meters in height) and are very productive: Volume of the pot or grow bag (liters) Dry weight of the bud (grams) 8-9 20-25 12-15 40-45 22-25 60-75 30-40 80-110 ·From seed germination to harvest, 90-120 days elapse ·They are suitable for outdoor cultivation 10. WHERE TO GROW: INDOOR/ OUTDOOR This is a very important decision to make, since the environmental variables of the crop—along with plant management—will have a significant impact on quality and yield. Therefore, if the grower can choose between indoor and outdoor cultivation, here are the advantages and disadvantages of both methods. • Indoor cultivation: · We need to decide where we are going to place the cannabis plantation inside the house: ·Planting at home in a room: It's best if it's not too big so that it's easier to set up the growing area, and has a window facing the street or a light well. • Growing at home in a grow tent: It is easier to set up the growing area. ·Advantages: The environment can be controlled, thus maintaining optimal levels of light, temperature and humidity, air circulation, ventilation, carbon dioxide and nutrients The harvest is of higher quality than that obtained from outdoor cultivation (although preferences vary from person to person), provided that the plant is handled properly, and therefore its price is higher. ·Disadvantages: •Requires an initial investment in equipment: -Grow tent -Dehumidifiers -Hygrometer -Lighting lamp -Carbon dioxide emitters -CO2 meter -Extractors -Activated carbon filters -Fans -Light-reflecting sheets -Heaters -Thermometer And high fixed electricity costs. The use of solar panels is recommended to reduce electricity bills. • Outdoor cultivation: · It can be done on a terrace, balcony, interior patio or plot of land ·Advantages: ·It is more economical than indoor growing •Yields are higher if cannabis is grown in the ground (cheaper production by weight) ·Disadvantages: ·It is governed by nature, and we must consider that climatological variables may be inadequate at some stage of cultivation. ·Marijuana is usually of lower quality 11. SELECTION OF VARIETIES • Choice of variety : • The choice of the variety to cultivate is usually made considering various factors: • Suitable area • Harvest time • Market price • Climate • Performance • Difficulty •Uses and desired effects (flavor, aromas, euphoria, relaxation) • In indoor cultivation: ·Photoperiodic varieties, mostly feminized indicas, are chosen because of their shorter flowering time and higher bud quality compared to feminized sativas. • In outdoor crops: •Varieties are chosen: • “Autoflowering” feminized seeds when a quick harvest and undemanding quality are desired ·Feminized “Indic Photoperiod” seeds when a higher quality production is desired ·“Photoperiodic Sativas” feminized when a medium quality production is desired 12. SEEDS (SEXUAL OR CLONED) VERSUS CUTTINGS Both seeds and cuttings have their pros and cons, but in both cases it's perfectly possible to obtain high-quality buds. Therefore, before deciding which path to take, it's essential to understand the advantages and disadvantages of both options, always considering the alternative of combining both cultivation methods (for example, starting a grow with seeds and then, when the plants are pruned, taking cuttings from those that have shown the best characteristics). ·SEXUAL SEEDS ·Advantages: • An endless list of cannabis varieties is available, and you can generally be sure of growing verified genetics. They are easy to obtain and legal in most countries, at least until they germinate. They can be stored for relatively long periods of time, although it is not recommended that they exceed 2 years, since after this time they lose the ability to produce compounds that destroy dormancy factors and antinutrients, as well as to transform the reserve nutrients of the endosperm – starch, lipids, proteins – into smaller molecules (glucose, fatty acids, amino acids) that are essential for the development of the embryo. Under suitable growing conditions, they develop a powerful root system, a tangle of primary, secondary, and tertiary roots with countless absorbent hairs, resulting in strong plants and abundant harvests. ·Disadvantages: Some seeds are non-viable and will not germinate, and – although the causes are very diverse – this will mainly be due to: ·Immature seeds ·They have been collected prematurely and their embryo will not develop ·Old seeds They take longer to hydrate and hatch, making them more susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections. ·They have lost, to a greater or lesser extent, the ability to produce compounds that guarantee the arrival of nutrients to the embryo Seeds are slightly different from their parents due to genetic and environmental factors, especially when they come from unstabilized plants. This means they won't produce an exact replica of their parent, and there will be differences among the plants in height, color, flavor, potency, and yield. Ultimately, each seed will result in a different plant; the harvest won't be completely uniform, and some plants will be better than others. ·The cultivation time compared to cuttings is longer, since for the plant to begin to flower you have to wait until it is mature ·CLONED SEEDS They are formed solely from the ovules of the female cannabis flowers without the need for pollen fertilization, that is, without the fusion of gametes. The ovule develops into a seed whose embryo contains exactly the same genotype as the plant from which it originates. ·Advantages: ·The seeds have embryos that are genetically identical to the parent plant •No genetic variability is produced in the offspring. The plant's characteristics are maintained across generations without the need for cloning with cuttings or repeated crosses. ·They allow obtaining plants that are genetically identical to the mother plant, something that cannot be done with cars using cuttings. •It eliminates the problem of various pathogens (viruses, fungi, bacteria, ...) passing into the crop through cuttings or other types of vegetative propagation ·They can be stored for relatively long periods of time (up to three years is most convenient) Under suitable growing conditions, they give rise to a powerful root system, a tangle of primary, secondary and tertiary roots with countless absorbent hairs, resulting in robust plants and abundant harvests. ·Disadvantages: Currently, only a few photoperiod (ZAKE, ZULEI, GARY PAYTON, FCL, SHIMO, SKUNK MASTER KUSH, K-RUNTZ) and autoflowering (RUNTZ, PERMANENT MARKER, CEREAL MILK, APPLE FRITTER, BISCOTTI, TROPICANA COOKIES) varieties are available from BK Seeds , the only seed bank that—to date—has successfully cloned cannabis seeds. However, with BK Seeds ' PROSEM product, cloned seeds of any female cannabis variety, both photoperiod and autoflowering, can be obtained. The cultivation time compared to cuttings is longer, since for the plant to begin flowering you have to wait until the plant is mature ·CUTTINGS ·Advantages: • Clones are identical copies of the mother plant, so all plants derived from it: ·they will be female They will look the same when grown in the same environment and under identical conditions (absolutely homogeneous cultivation) Cuttings can be obtained by taking advantage of plant pruning, which means not spending money on seeds . • Reduced vegetative growth time (eliminating seed germination time) in the early stages of plant development if the clones are already rooted. Furthermore, it's important to remember that cuttings don't grow faster than seeds; they need at least two weeks to develop a root system robust enough to be considered viable. ·Disadvantages: · It is difficult to obtain cuttings of certain varieties They are illegal in most countries, so shipping them is quite risky. Maintaining the mother plant in good condition and cutting the cuttings at the precise moment requires time, space, and knowledge. They do not have a primary root and their root system does not grow as extensively as that of plants grown from seeds, which leads to a lower capacity for anchoring and nutrient absorption They have a very limited lifespan, because unlike seeds, they cannot be stored for the future. ·They can introduce pests and diseases into the grow room Fast-version varieties – resulting from crossing photoperiodic and autoflowering strains – are not suitable for taking cuttings because their photoperiodic genes are not dominant enough to inhibit their autoflowering genes. Therefore, they will begin to flower before vegetative development is sufficient to achieve a minimum yield. 13. SUBSTRATES Choosing the right substrate for seed germination, rooting cuttings, or plant development is crucial for the successful completion of these processes. ·When choosing the substrate for outdoor cultivation, the climatic conditions of the growing area must be considered, as well as the particularities of the different cannabis varieties. Taking environmental factors into account, the following distinctions can be made: • Areas with frequent rainfall and low temperatures (use a substrate with high drainage) • Areas with sporadic rainfall and moderate temperatures (use a substrate with medium drainage) •Areas with low rainfall and high temperatures (use a substrate with poor drainage) ·Taking into account the particularities of the different varieties of cannabis: The ideal substrate should not contain mineral fertilizers or should contain them in very low quantities. It should simply act as a container for the nutrients – preferably semi-organic – that will be supplied through irrigation throughout the different phenological stages. ·For example, in substrates enriched with nitric and/or ammoniacal nitrogen, phosphates and potash of mineral origin, the following processes take place: “Autoflowering varieties” exhibit excessive growth of the main root, causing the plant to flower too early, resulting in low yield and poor quality. ·“Fast-version variety cuttings” flower before reaching the development threshold that allows for average production “Numerous sativa-dominant hybrids” synthesize excessive growth promoters during the vegetative period, which subsequently results in reduced flowering and fluffy buds, a problem that is accentuated in those varieties whose flower clusters are made up of a high proportion of leaves/flowers Indica-dominant hybrids produce fewer root hairs. Their roots are long, and the root ball is medium to large, but they lack the root hairs that ultimately absorb nutrients from the substrate and support and regulate the plant's biochemistry. 14. POTS ·POTS FOR GROWING CANNABIS: The type of pot used in cannabis cultivation is a very important decision, because it can be decisive in the development of the roots and the evolution of the plants. Currently, two main categories of pots are used in cannabis cultivation: ·Plastic flowerpots ·Geotextile pots · PLASTIC POTS ·They are the most used, although for advantages unrelated to positive aspects of the crop, such as: ·They are economical compared to other materials ·They are lightweight They come in countless sizes and shapes. ·They are easy to obtain ·Square-shaped pots are used for indoor cultivation, as they allow for better use of limited space, and are generally black in color. ·For outdoor cultivation, round white ones are more commonly used, as they are more stable against the wind and do not heat up as much in the sun as black ones. ·Disadvantages: They are impermeable, so they don't properly release excess water, which tends to stagnate at the bottom, especially if the substrate is unsuitable or has degraded over time. This situation increases the risk of root rot. Due to its lack of porosity, the substrate cannot properly perform its natural respiration cycle, and the roots begin to wander in search of pockets of oxygen. Plastic retains heat and cold, so during the summer the pots can overheat and cause the roots to wilt or even die, and during the winter the water can freeze inside the pots and destroy the absorbent hairs. • “Plastic pots” are not the most suitable for germinating seeds, rooting cuttings or growing plants, given the disadvantages we have just outlined: ·Impermeability • Excessive water retention • Risk of root rot • Retention of cold and heat ·It is advisable to avoid the most toxic plastic pots (#3PVC, #6PS and #7Polycarbonate) in any case, opting for the less toxic ones (#2HDPE, #4LDPE and #5PP) ·“AIR-POT” POTS ·This variety of plastic pots was created with the intention of avoiding the problems presented by conventional plastic pots: “excessive water retention and poor oxygenation of the substrate” Its walls are made up of three-dimensional cones that allow water evaporation and an aerated environment, and its raised base has numerous holes to ensure good drainage. ·Advantages: ·It allows oxygen to enter and excess water to exit. ·As oxygen flows throughout the substrate, roots grow everywhere ·Disadvantages: ·They do not protect the roots from extreme temperatures, which implies destruction of the absorbent hairs and inhibition of their genesis The roots wrap around the inside of the pot's nipples or cones, making them unsuitable for transplanting (seedlings, cuttings, etc.), because when removing the root ball, the part of the roots attached to the cones can break, causing significant stress to the plants. ·They are very expensive compared to other options that perform the same functions and lack their drawbacks (for example: polyethylene bags, black inside and white outside, with side bands of ventilation holes) ·GEOTEXTILE POTS ·They are round pots, made of non-woven and permeable fabric, formed mainly by synthetic polymers such as polypropylene Due to their porosity, they allow excess water to evaporate and air to flow freely through the substrate. ·Advantages: ·They prevent waterlogging of the substrate ·They promote lateral root growth · Disadvantages: ·They do not protect the roots from extreme temperatures They are not suitable for transplanting (seedlings, cuttings, etc.) because – like AIR-P OT pots – the roots adhere to the pot walls. Therefore, when removing the root ball, some roots will remain in the fabric, causing significant stress to the plants. However, they are very good and practical once transplanting is no longer necessary. 15. BAGS FOR GROWING CANNABIS ·Grow bags ·They are made of flexible plastic, from 100% recycled COEX material ·There are three types of grow bags available on the market: 1. White grow bags, both inside and out 2. Grow bags that are black inside and out 3. Grow bags that are white on the outside and black on the inside ·White grow bags, both inside and out ·They reflect sunlight and maintain a suitable substrate temperature ·They have the disadvantage that light passes through the bag and damages the roots ·They are often used by nursery owners for the development of seedlings, mainly because they are very cheap, and fruit tree saplings, proceeding to transplant them before the roots emerge from the substrate ·Black grow bags, both inside and out They perform well in places where sunlight does not directly hit the grow bag, in plants whose roots require higher temperatures for their development, and for winter stages. • Because their black color absorbs and retains heat, they are not suitable for outdoor crops exposed to the sun ·Grow bags that are white on the outside and black on the inside ·They are ideal for indoor and outdoor cultivation. ·Its white exterior: •provides greater light reflection ·It prevents the substrate from overheating and causing problems in the plant roots. ·It allows you to write any detail on them with a permanent marker ·Its black interior: • It provides opacity and prevents light from passing through the bag and damaging the roots. ·They have holes in the base for proper drainage, preventing water stagnation and ensuring adequate watering They are the cheapest option on the market for growing cannabis in containers. However, you must ensure they have side panels with holes for adequate ventilation. ·They are practical, generally single-use, although some people reuse them after washing and disinfecting them, but it is best to discard them after the crop is finished They are very convenient. When transplanting, there is no risk of damaging the roots, as they do not grow into the bag's walls, minimizing the stress this process can cause the plants. To separate the bag from the substrate, simply cut it carefully with scissors. It is not advisable to transplant the bag directly into another bag or final pot by only cutting the bottom, as the vertical walls will prevent or greatly reduce the lateral development of the roots. They have a practical design and negligible weight ·They are foldable, so they take up very little space They are available in different capacities to suit the different stages of cultivation. The maximum volume currently available on the market is 44L. ·Cannabis plant production based on pot size Volume of the pot or grow bag (liters) Dry weight of the bud (grams) 2 5-8 6-8 15-20 12-15 30-38 20 50-80 30 75-120 40 100-150 70 175-280 100 250-400 150 375-600 200 500-800 300 750-1200 500 1250-2000 However, production does not depend solely on the size of the pot; other factors also influence it, such as the time given to vegetative growth (the longer the vegetative growth time, the greater the production), the quality of the irrigation water, fertilizers, temperature, relative humidity, light, etc. Pruning to eliminate apical dominance in favor of lateral branches is also very important (in plants grown from seed - considering that two branches emerge symmetrically from each node - this should be done when the plant has 7-8 nodes; and in plants grown from cuttings - in this case, generally only one branch emerges from each node - it is advisable to prune when the plant has 12-14 lateral branches). 16. ·IRRIGATION WATER: THE IMPORTANCE OF QUALITY The quality of irrigation water (most tap water contains salts that damage plants, heavy metals, chlorine, etc.) is very important because plants absorb water and mineral nutrients through the root hairs and transport them through the xylem to the stem, branches, leaves, flowers, and fruit by means of transpiration and root pressure. These functions of absorption and transport of nutrients from the roots to the aerial parts of the plant are performed optimally when the water containing mineral salts and other nutrients is reverse osmosis water. In this water, the balance between H2O, OH-, and H+ (or H3O+) is governed by the autoionization of water. 2 H2O ⇌ H3O+ + OH- resulting in a neutral pH of 7, although it can have a slightly different pH (even acidic) due to the absorption of CO2, forming carbonic acid, which shifts the equilibrium and increases H+ ions. This is because, being so pure, reverse osmosis water is very reactive. It absorbs carbon dioxide from the air (CO2), increasing H+ ions and changing the pH towards acidity, although it remains a dynamic equilibrium. The fundamental importance of using reverse osmosis water to provide water and nutrients to plants is due to the fact that: It regulates the pH of the medium and the inside of the plants . This is because reverse osmosis water easily absorbs carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air and the substrate, which is then easily converted into carbonic acid, acidifying the medium and the plant sap in a balanced and regulated manner. It regulates the absorption of minerals and other nutrients from the soil through the root hairs. This is because these root hairs absorb mineral salts from the soil and anions and cations from other nutrients based on the ionization of the water that carries them. And reverse osmosis water, due to its ionic characteristics, as we have seen previously, prevents or significantly reduces the absorption of excess mineral salts by the root hairs. In summary, by using reverse osmosis water to provide water and nutrients to plants, we can disregard pH and EC. 17. CANNABIS CULTIVATION STEP BY STEP FROM SEED INDOOR CANNABIS CULTIVATION FROM SEED ·Seed storage Cannabis seeds are orthodox, meaning they can be dried to low moisture contents, between 5-8%, with little loss of viability if they are quality seeds and not seeds full of germination inhibitors – antinutrients, phytates, oxidized tannins, antienzymes,... – dormant, empty, devoid of embryo, damaged by insects or even dead. Cannabis seeds, in a dry, dark environment and at a temperature of 4-6ºC, can maintain their longevity, with little chance of weak and/or irregular plants emerging, for up to 3 years. ·Pregermination It begins when the seeds absorb water and ends when the seed coat detaches from the stem and the cotyledons appear. Cannabis seeds have a "protein" endosperm (they contain more protein than starch) and because of this they absorb a large amount of water, so they must be hydrated in a slightly humid medium so that their final hydration level is not so high as to drown them. ·Pre-germination process: ·In a container, place three layers of kitchen paper. Next, spray the paper with purified water until damp (but not soaked). Then place the seeds on top, spray the paper and seeds with an aqueous solution of GERMINATOR, and place two layers of kitchen paper moistened with purified water on top. Finally, seal the container tightly with the lid. Every 12 hours, or whenever necessary to maintain adequate humidity inside the container, spray the GERMINATOR solution in reverse osmosis water onto the paper and seeds. This process, in addition to maintaining the correct humidity, destroys antinutrients and dormant components in the seeds, resulting in healthier, stronger germination with all their genes active. Place the container in a dark place at 27-30ºC and maintain these conditions until the radicle reaches 2-3 cm. Once this is achieved, plant the pre-germinated seedling in a Jiffy pellet moistened with an aqueous solution of BALA (0.25 g/L of water), completely burying the radicle and leaving the seed coat exposed. ·Germination ·It begins when the pre-germinated seed loses its shell and the cotyledons are visible. ·Germination process: The pre-germinated seedling, with a 2-3 cm radicle, is inserted into a hole previously made in the jiffy pellet or the substrate of the grow bag (125 ml capacity). This hole is then closed by gently loosening the substrate, and the bag is placed in a propagator at 30-34°C (to encourage rapid growth) and 60-65% humidity. When the seedling has two true leaves – and before it becomes too leggy – it is transplanted to a 2.2 L grow bag. From this moment on and throughout the vegetative growth, simply apply the BALA product to achieve vigorous plants with adequate branching and no nutritional deficiencies. ·Rooting/Seedling When the seedlings have two true leaves, transplant them from the Jiffy pellet to a 2.2 L grow bag. When the seedling reaches 4-5 nodes with three-fingered leaves, transplant them to 12 L grow bags. ·Environmental conditions of the grow tent for the seedling phase ·Photoperiod: 18/6 ·Temperature: 24-26ºC (Day), 20-22ºC (Night) • Relative humidity: 60-65% ·Lamp: 720W LED lighting system with electronic ballast (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) ·PPFD: 60-90 μmol/s.m² (4000-6000 lux) •Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm (in some industrial cities, the air can reach values between 500-600 ppm) • Air extraction and renewal: At least 200m3/h for 1 minute every 1 hour (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Ventilation: 1 oscillating clip-on fan (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Substrate: The most suitable one is composed of peat, perlite and coconut fiber ·Grow bag: 2.2 L capacity ·Irrigation: The best option is to water with reverse osmosis water (EC=0) – this allows for total control over the amount of nutrients and the proportion in which they are given to the plants – to which BALA is added •Amount of water for irrigation per pot: 5% of the pot's volume, every 2-3 days and whenever deemed necessary •Recommended fertilizers/biostimulants: BALA (0.5g/L irrigation water) •Rooting/Vegetative growth The first thing we must address in this period is the issue of the duration of the growth phase, as it is closely related to: ·the grow tent space ·the varieties of cannabis that will be planted • the number of cannabis plants that will be in the growing space ·the harvest that will be obtained Larger pots produce larger and generally higher quality buds due to the greater development of the root system and its absorbent hairs, which ultimately, through physical and biochemical processes, are what support and govern the cannabis plants. ·When the plant has 8-10 nodes, it is transplanted to a 40-50 L geotextile pot, which will be its final pot until the end of the growing season. Growing indoors in 40-50 L pots involves a vegetative growth phase of 45-50 days, but has the following advantages: ·to obtain a maximum harvest and of a far superior organoleptic quality • incurring fewer expenses because a smaller quantity of seeds and grow bags is used, although the greater energy demand in this case due to lengthening the days with an 18/6 photoperiod balances them out ·easily cut large clones/cuttings ·Cultivate a small number of plants that allows for good governance and large harvests ·When choosing a strain for indoor growing, the dimensions of the grow tent must be taken into account: -For varieties that grow very large, grow tents at least 2m high are needed, and the lowest and weakest branches should be removed in the days leading up to the change in photoperiod (from 18/6 to 12/12). The sturdier cut branches can be used as cuttings. • Environmental conditions of the grow tent for the rooting/vegetative growth phase ·Photoperiod: 18/6 ·Temperature: 22-24ºC (Day), 18-20ºC (Night) • Relative humidity: 60-65% ·Lamp: 720W LED lighting system with electronic ballast (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) ·PPFD: 300-450 μmol/s.m² (20000-30000 lux) •Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm (in some industrial cities, the air can reach values between 500-600 ppm) • Air extraction and renewal: At least 200m³ /h for 1 minute every 15 minutes (1.2x1.2x2m cabinet) •Ventilation: 1 oscillating clip-on fan (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Substrate: The most suitable one is composed of peat, perlite and coconut fiber ·Grow bag: 12L capacity ·Irrigation: The best option is to water with reverse osmosis water (EC=0) – this allows for total control over the amount of nutrients and the proportion in which they are given to the plants – to which BALA is added •Amount of water for irrigation per pot: between 5-7% of the pot's volume, every 3-4 days and whenever necessary ·Recommended fertilizers/biostimulants: BALA 1g/L irrigation water for plants with 6-7 nodes, 1.5-2g/L irrigation water for plants with 8-10 or more nodes. Once the plant has reached 10-12 nodes, we will end the vegetative growth phase and change the photoperiod from 18/6 to 12/12 to begin the pre-flowering process. Two to three days before changing the photoperiod, we will remove the lower branches (generally those growing from the bottom 2-3 nodes). This will reduce gibberellin production and, therefore, excessive stretching of the plant, as well as prevent nutrient waste on branches that would produce small, low-quality buds due to insufficient light. In some varieties, due to their vigorous growth, it will be advisable to prune the main stem so that it doesn't excessively inhibit the growth of lateral shoots. This will reduce the concentration of auxins in the central area, adjust the plant's vertical growth according to the height of the grow tent, and allow the shoots to develop more strongly. ·Pre-flowering It is the transition stage between the vegetative stage and flowering. It can last 1-2 weeks. In indoor cultivation, this stage begins when the plant reaches sexual maturity. The emergence of pre-flowers is not dependent on the photoperiod. The pre-flowers appear at the fourth or fifth internode of the stem, between the stipule and the emerging branch. In females, small white pistils (hairs) will appear, and in males, tiny globules. This is the most suitable time to induce flowering by changing the photoperiod from 18/6 to 12/12. Never before. Inducing flowering before the pre-flowers appear does not accelerate it and, in fact, can stress the plant and cause it to develop intersexual (hermaphrodite) characteristics. This period is characterized by the plants growing and gaining height rapidly (some of them can double and triple it) developing a large number of leaves and stems. • Environmental conditions of the grow tent for the pre-flowering phase ·Photoperiod: 12/12 ·Temperature: 22-24ºC (Day), 18-20ºC (Night) • Relative humidity: 55-60% ·Lamp: 720W LED lighting system with electronic ballast (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) ·PPFD: (400-500 μmol/s.m² (27000-33000lux) •Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm (in some industrial cities, the air can reach values between 500-600 ppm) • Air extraction and renewal: At least 200m3/h for 2 minutes every 15 minutes (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Ventilation: 1 oscillating clip-on fan (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Substrate: The most suitable one is composed of peat, perlite and coconut fiber ·Grow bag: 40-50L capacity ·Irrigation: The best option is to water with reverse osmosis water (EC=0) – this allows for total control over the amount of nutrients and the proportion in which they are given to the plants – to which FLORI is added •Amount of water for irrigation per pot: between 5-7% of the pot's volume, every 3-4 days and whenever necessary •Recommended fertilizers/biostimulants: FLORI 1.5-2 g/L irrigation water ·Bloom ·We will divide this stage into three phases: •Start of flowering (Weeks 1-3): Flower multiplication-Bud formation ·Mid-flowering (Weeks 4-6): Bud fattening ·End of flowering-Maturation (Week 7 until harvest) ·We must keep in mind that throughout the flowering period the light should gradually increase, never decrease, because if the latter occurs the plant will produce too many growth hormones (gibberellins) compared to flowering hormones, resulting in more leaves than necessary during this phenological phase of the crop •Start of flowering (Weeks 1-3): Flower multiplication-Bud formation During the first week, the first flowers appear at the tips of the branches. The plants continue to grow slightly, but more slowly, until growth eventually stops. The pistils (the female reproductive organ of a flower, consisting of the ovary and its extension called the style) along with the stigmas (the characteristic white hairs on the calyx) begin to appear at the branch tips. In the following two weeks, the plants focus primarily on producing more and more white pistils that will develop into buds. Resin glands and trichomes typically do not appear at this stage. • Environmental conditions of the grow tent for the initial flowering phase (Weeks 1-3): Flower multiplication-Bud formation ·Photoperiod: 12/12 ·Temperature: 22-24ºC (Day), 18-20ºC (Night) • Relative humidity: 55-60% ·Lamp: 720W LED lighting system with electronic ballast (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) ·PPFD: 450-550 μmol/s.m² (30000-37000 lux) •Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm (in some industrial cities, the air can reach values between 500-600 ppm) • Air extraction and renewal: At least 200m3/h for 2 minutes every 15 minutes (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Ventilation: 1 oscillating clip-on fan (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Substrate: The most suitable one is composed of peat, perlite and coconut fiber ·Grow bag: 40-50L capacity ·Irrigation: The best option is to water with reverse osmosis water (EC=0) – this allows for total control over the amount of nutrients and the proportion in which they are given to the plants – to which FLORI is added •Amount of water for irrigation per pot: between 5-10% of the pot's volume, every 3-4 days and whenever necessary •Recommended fertilizers/biostimulants: FLORI 1.5-2 g/L irrigation water ·Mid-flowering (Weeks 4-6): Bud fattening ·From the fourth week onwards, the plants only try to fatten up the buds by developing numerous flower clusters •It is important to consider the composition of the flower cluster of each cannabis variety, as the quality of the bud will depend largely on the ratio of bud leaves to flowers in the flower cluster (the trichomes of the flowers contain a richer and more varied range of terpenes than the trichomes of the bud leaves, as well as a greater amount of cannabinoids) ·In general, the flower clusters that make up the bud usually have, depending on the variety, the following proportion of leaves and flowers ·one leaf of bread | 7-12 flowers (top quality buds) • a sheet of bread | 5-7 flowers (medium quality buds) • a sheet of bread | 4-5 flowers (low quality buds) • a leaf of bread | 2-3 flowers (very low quality buds) Some poorly stabilized polyhybrid varieties produce buds consisting solely of leaves or, at most, one flower per leaf. These buds exhibit an imbalance between aromas and flavors; or, in other words, a very high disproportion between terpenes, cannabinoids, and flavonoids. ·Towards the end of the sixth week some stigmas will begin to change from white to an orange or dark brown hue, the buds will continue to fatten up and the flowers and bread leaves will produce more and more trichomes Removing too many leaves in the last weeks of flowering, trying to ensure that light reaches all parts of the plant effectively, has unpleasant effects: The photosynthetic capacity of plants is reduced, and they will not have enough energy for flower production. The plants will try to renew their foliage by forming new leaves on the buds, thus reducing the energy they need to increase the flower clusters. Therefore, only remove leaves that cast excessive shade on the flowers beneath them, or those that are yellow, dry, or diseased. Before resorting to removing leaves, it's more effective to bend or reposition them so they no longer block light from reaching the flowers. We must bear in mind, with regard to the leaves during this flowering period, that as the flower buds develop, they may absorb a large portion of the nutrients contained in the parent leaves (primary, secondary, tertiary, etc.), weakening them to the point of yellowing and detaching from the plant. This is a natural process that does not harm the plant in any way and should not be confused with a state of nutrient deficiency. • Environmental conditions of the grow tent for the beginning of mid-flowering phase (Weeks 4-6): Bud fattening ·Photoperiod: 12/12 ·Temperature: 22-24ºC (Day), 18-20ºC (Night) • Relative humidity: 50-55% ·Lamp: 720W LED lighting system with electronic ballast (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) ·PPFD: 500-600 μmol/s.m² (33000-40000 lux) •Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm (in some industrial cities, the air can reach values between 500-600 ppm) • Air extraction and renewal: At least 200m3/h for 2 minutes every 15 minutes (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Ventilation: 1 oscillating clip-on fan (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Substrate: The most suitable one is composed of peat, perlite and coconut fiber ·Grow bag: 40-50L capacity ·Irrigation: The best option is to water with reverse osmosis water (EC=0) – this allows for total control over the amount of nutrients and the proportion in which they are given to the plants – to which PETAGROS is added •Amount of water for irrigation per pot: between 5-10% of the pot's volume, every 3-4 days and whenever necessary •Recommended fertilizers/biostimulants: PETAGROS 2 g/L irrigation water ·End of flowering-ripening (Week 7 until harvest) During week 7 and until harvest, the buds will develop a significant increase in trichomes, so the characteristic aroma of each variety will be at its peak. Only the capitate-sessile and capitate-stalker trichomes produce terpenes and cannabinoids. Neither the bulbous nor the cystolithic trichomes produce them. ·If during cultivation the plants have been fertilized-biostimulated with the products BALA , FLORI and PETAGROS – especially rich in apoenzymes, coenzymes, carboxylases, reductases and non-hormonal signaling enzymes – it is not necessary to perform a root wash. Some varieties are cultivated for their rich aromas and extraordinary flavors, but have very low THC levels. In this case, if you wish to significantly increase the amount of cannabinoids, we recommend applying THComplex Resin at a dose of 2 g/L of irrigation water. • Environmental conditions of the grow tent for the final flowering-maturation phase ·Photoperiod: 12/12 ·Temperature: 22-24ºC (Day), 18-20ºC (Night) • Relative humidity: 50-55% ·Lamp: 720W LED lighting system with electronic ballast (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) ·PPFD: 600-650 μmol/s.m² (40000-43000 lux) •Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm (in some industrial cities, the air can reach values between 500-600 ppm) • Air extraction and renewal: At least 200m3/h for 2 minutes every 15 minutes (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Ventilation: 1 oscillating clip-on fan (Cabinet 1.2x1.2x2m) •Substrate: The most suitable one is composed of peat, perlite and coconut fiber ·Grow bag: 40-50L capacity ·Irrigation: The best option is to water with reverse osmosis water (EC=0) – this allows for total control over the amount of nutrients and the proportion in which they are given to the plants – to which PETAGROS is added • Watering amount per pot: between 5-7% of the pot's volume, every 3-4 days and whenever deemed necessary. During the last week of cultivation, water with an amount of water representing 5% of the pot's volume to ensure the plant produces the maximum amount of resin and cannabinoids according to its genetics. ·Recommended fertilizers/biostimulants: PETAGROS 1.5 g/L irrigation water - THComplex Resin 1.5 g/L irrigation water ·Harvest The most accurate way to know when it's time to harvest is to monitor the color of the resin at the tips of the glandular trichomes: "when the resin begins to turn amber, it's time to harvest." To be certain, it's best to observe the trichomes with a digital mini-microscope. ·Drying The buds are dried in a dark room, temperature: 16-18ºC, and relative humidity: 55-60ºC Under these conditions, the buds take 10-15 days to dry, preventing the degradation of terpenes and cannabinoids, as well as excessive dehydration that would distort the combustion process. ·Cured ·Its main function is to degrade the chlorophyll in the leaves of the bud, and for this purpose the buds are placed in a glass container, filling it to ¾ of its capacity •Maintain humidity between 56-58% and temperature between 16-18ºC • It is essential to ventilate the buds, and to do this, open the container 1-2 times a day for 10 minutes, repeating the process for 7 consecutive days. ·Storage ·Once the curing process is complete, vacuum-seal the buds and store them in a dark place with the appropriate environmental conditions. 18. GROWING CANNABIS STEP BY STEP FROM CUTTINGS INDOOR CANNABIS CULTIVATION FROM CUTTINGS •Rooting of cuttings ·Rooting process of cuttings: Make cuttings with one-three nodes and a growth point •Rooting process of cuttings: Cut the selected stem from a growing, non-flowering plant using sharp, clean, and disinfected pruning shears. Then, remove most of the foliage, leaving the leaves—albeit trimmed—at the top of the stem, and place the cutting in a glass of purified water. ·Place RAIKLON in a small, narrow, tall container, with dimensions suitable to hold only the product we need and at the same time be almost full Before placing the cutting in the tube containing RAIKLON , remove the lower part of the stem that has been in contact with the reverse osmosis water in the glass. This prevents the product from being rendered ineffective by a constant supply of moisture, which would eventually turn it into an impractical "paste" for the intended purpose. ·Then make an oblique cut in the stem, leaving one or two nodes above the cut. ·Insert the part of the stem that will be buried in the substrate (2-3 cm) into the tube almost full of RAIKLON ·The cutting coated with RAIKLON is inserted into a hole previously made in the substrate. ·Place the cuttings in a propagator at 22-23ºC, relative humidity of 70%, photoperiod 24/0 and PPFD: 60μmol/s.m² (4000 lux) It is important that this hole does not go all the way through the block, because - otherwise - a piece of the lower part of the stem could slip out and stick out, which could hinder root development and even induce stem rot. It is also very important to keep the bottom of the propagator slightly moist, avoiding waterlogging at all times, as this can cause the plugs to absorb an excessive amount of water, which could lead to stem rot. Therefore, any water that accumulates at the bottom of the propagator after foliar sprays with reverse osmosis water and watering with BALA should be removed. ·Keep the leaves, twigs and stem moist at all times, applying osmosis water via foliar spray every 6-8 hours or whenever it is necessary to moisten the aerial part. Water every 4-5 days with an aqueous solution of BALA until the roots are visible, numerous, and well-developed. The cultivation and fertilization/biostimulation method for plants grown from cuttings is the same as for plants grown from seeds, bearing in mind – when considering nodes and branches – that in the case of cuttings, only one branch usually grows from each node 19. CULTIVATION OF OUTDOOR CANNABIS FROM SEXUAL OR CLONED SEED The cultivation and fertilization/biostimulation methods for plants grown from seed or cloned plants outdoors are the same as for indoor-grown plants, except that in this case, the successes or difficulties will also depend on the environmental conditions. 20. INDOOR CANNABIS CULTIVATION OF MOTHER PLANTS TO OBTAIN CUTTINGS The cultivation and fertilization/biostimulation method for indoor mother plants used to obtain cuttings is the same as for plants grown indoors during vegetative growth, since in this cultivation we must maintain an 18/6 photoperiod to prevent flowering at all times. Therefore, the only fertilizer/biostimulant to use is BALA . ·We can obtain cuttings by taking them from the mother plant and also by taking advantage of the pruning of the plants that is done a few days before the change of photoperiod from 18/6 to 12/12 21. INDOOR PEST CONTROL The main pests in indoor growing are usually: mites, micro mites, thrips, and pathogenic fungi. ·Mites and micro-mites: ·Treatment: Apply by spraying to the entire plant: -Milbemectin 1%…………...0.5 ml/L of reverse osmosis water -Hexythiazox 10%…………….0.5-0.7 g/L of reverse osmosis water ·Trips: ·Treatment: Apply by spraying to the entire plant: -Spinosad 48%……………0.2-0.3 g/L of osmosis water ·Pathogenic fungi: ·Treatment: Apply by spraying to the entire plant: -Chlorthalonil 50%………….0.25-0.3 g/L of osmosis water Apply twice via foliar spray at an interval of 12-17 days Growers who use BALA, FLORI, and PETA-GROS fertilizers/biostimulants will rarely see their plants affected by pathogenic fungi, as these products contain enzymes that degrade the membranes of these fungi, preventing their metabolic functions and their progress. 22. OUTDOOR PEST CONTROL The main outdoor pests are usually: mites, micro mites, thrips, whiteflies, aphids, caterpillars, and pathogenic fungi. • Mites and micro mites, thrips, pathogenic fungi: Same treatment as for indoor pest control ·Whiteflies and aphids: ·Treatment: Apply by spraying to the entire plant: -Flupyradifurone 20%………………2-2.5 ml/L of water ·Caterpillars: ·Treatment: Apply by spraying to the entire plant: -Spinosad 48%……………0.2-0.3 g/L of osmosis water 23. CANNABIS PLANTS INTENDED FOR SEED PRODUCTION INDOOR/OUTDOOR Production of sexual seeds • Pollinate the flowers of female plants (XX) with pollen from reverted plants (female plants that, after being treated with silver thiosulfate, produce male flowers with XX chromosomes) when they have developed many receptive female pistils •Water with a solution of FLORI (1.5-2 g/L of water) in reverse osmosis water until seed collection ·The cannabis flower is made up of: ·bract, ovary, and ·pistil (formed by stigma and style) The ovary of the cannabis flower has one or two ovules, and therefore each ovary can give rise to one or two seeds. • Pollination/fertilization process of the female cannabis flower The sticky stigma captures pollen grains, which germinate and form a pollen tube that extends to the ovule. The male gamete travels through the tube and eventually fuses with the ovule in the ovary, creating a zygote. ·After successful fertilization, that cannabis flower undergoes significant changes: ·All the floral parts fall off, leaving only the ovary that encloses and protects the developing seed(s). Production of cloned seeds • For flowering female cannabis plants, both photoperiod and autoflowering, apply an aqueous solution of PROSEM (2g/l of reverse osmosis water) via foliar spray during the light period until runoff. Repeat the application for 6-8 consecutive days until the ovaries are clearly visible and developed on all treated buds. ·PROSEM should not be applied for more than 3 consecutive days to very tender shoots (both vegetative and floral), as it could produce phytotoxicity and end up killing them. ·Plants sprayed with PROSEM are fed with FLORI (1-1.5 g/L irrigation water), a fertilizer/biostimulant that provides all the elements that seeds need throughout their development 24. Grafted Cannabis Plants ·The grafting technique It consists of choosing two cannabis plants – the one that provides the stems or shoots (called the “donor”) and the one that will receive them (called the “rootstock”), both healthy, robust and in an advanced stage of the vegetative phase –, selecting stems from the donor plant, cutting them and connecting them to the cut section of the branches of the “rootstock” plant, so that after about 15 days they fuse into a single plant with a chemical and taste profile superior to the parts ·This technique allows: ·to produce unique and customized hybrids, with the best characteristics of both the “scion” and the “rootstock” • Generate mother plants of multiple strains for cloning ·create countless crosses ·to use a male rootstock to produce female flowers of the chosen variety ("male rootstock and female grafted branches") • Most suitable grafting types for cannabis plants The most common ways to assemble the grafting point are: ·whipbone graft ·cleft graft ·whip and tongue graft ·Due to the characteristics of the cannabis plant in general, the technique that offers the best results in this case is the “whip grafting” technique. •Whipbone grafting process step by step: 1. Water the chosen plants thoroughly one hour before grafting with a BALA solution in reverse osmosis water (0.5/1 g/L of reverse osmosis water) 2. Select the rootstock and scion from plants that are in an advanced stage of vegetative growth. Do not use flowering plants. Ensure that the donor stem and the rootstock branch section are the same diameter to facilitate the grafting process. 3. Cut the stem of the donor plant with pruning shears 4. Next, cut the joining point of the rootstock in the same way as you did with the scion so that it fits perfectly and spray the cuts – both of the rootstock and the scion – with a solution of YNJERT in osmosis water (1-2 g/100ml osmosis water) 5. Wrap the graft area with Teflon tape. To further strengthen the bond, surround it with plastic-coated wire. 6. Spray the plant with reverse osmosis water as often as necessary to keep the shoots hydrated and prevent them from wilting during the first two to four days. 7. Carefully remove the plastic-coated wire and Teflon tape two to three days after you have verified that the graft has been successful. Never before. 8. The plants must be in a medium with the following characteristics: •Indoor cultivation: -Temperature: 22-24ºC (day), 20-22ºC (night) -Relative humidity: 60-65% -Photoperiod: 18/6 -PPFD: 300-450 µmol/s m2 (20000-30000 lux) -Atmospheric CO2 concentration: 350-400 ppm minimum and up to 500-600 ppm ·Basic equipment for cannabis grafting ·Pruning shears ·Grafting knife ·Teflon tape •Plastic-coated wire ·YNJERT 25. ORGANIC, ORGANOMINERAL, SEMI-ORGANIC AND INORGANIC OR SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS IN CANNABIS CULTIVATION Organic fertilizers are composed of organic matter of plant origin (compost, humus, seaweed extract, etc.), animal origin (manure – cow, sheep, horse, chicken, bat, etc. –, fishmeal, etc.), or a mixture of both. These fertilizers take several weeks to become available to the plant, because in order for the plant to absorb their nutrients, they must undergo a biological mineralization process carried out by soil microorganisms (mainly bacteria and fungi), which decompose the organic matter and transform it into inorganic mineral salts. Therefore, in indoor cannabis cultivation, with a growing cycle of about 3-4 months, it makes no sense to use "organic fertilizers" due to their low nutrient concentration and slow availability. This type of cultivation requires highly soluble nutrients in an inorganic ionic form so the plant can absorb them directly, in proportions that promote rapid growth and vigorous flowering, resulting in large, heavy buds full of trichomes. ·Organomineral fertilizers: ·They result from the "mixture" of organic materials (compost, manure, humus, seaweed extract, ...) with mineral nutrients (NPK: nitrogen - urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate,... -, phosphorus - potassium phosphate, ammonium phosphate,.. -, potassium - potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, ...-, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, microelements (iron, zinc, manganese, copper, cobalt, nickel, boron, molybdenum,...) They offer "immediate" nutrition—thanks to the mineral fraction—and also "progressive" nutrition through the degradation and mineralization of organic matter over time. However, they cause many nutrient lockouts in the soil and disrupt the flow of raw sap in the xylem and processed sap in the phloem, reducing plant vigor and yield. In indoor photoperiodic and autoflowering cannabis cultivation, with a growing cycle of approximately 3-4 months, "organo-mineral" fertilizers, while offering better yields than organic fertilizers, are not ideal. Their higher content of nutrients in inorganic ionic form is combined with a significant amount of organic matter that the plant will not be able to assimilate during cultivation. This will cause circulatory blockages in the root hairs and the roots in general. All of this will result in spongy buds with many leaves, depending on the variety, since organic matter is the essential substrate for the emergence and development of leaves, stems, and branches. ·Semi-organic fertilizers: ·They are made up of "compounds" that combine primary macronutrients (NPK), secondary macronutrients (Ca, Mg, S) and microelements (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu, Co, B, Mo, ...) with organic molecules (amino acids, peptides, oligosaccharides, humic acids, ...) •In indoor photoperiodic and autoflowering cannabis plant cultivation, with a growing cycle of about 3-4 months, "semi-organic" fertilizers are the best option considering that: The primary macronutrients (NPK), secondary macronutrients (Ca, Mg, S) and micronutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu, Co, B, Mo, ...) are found in inorganic ionic form in irrigation water, and therefore their absorption by the plant's root hairs is immediate The "organic ligands" that make up "semi-organic" fertilizers are simple molecules that are completely soluble in water and are absorbed by the roots in a matter of minutes. •They do not cause burns on the roots or leaves, since the "organic-inorganic hybrid" is not a mixture, but a molecular or crystalline structure ·Inorganic or synthetic fertilizers: ·These are industrially manufactured products, produced through chemical or physical processes from minerals, rocks or gases (nitrogen - urea, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate,... -, phosphorus - ammonium phosphate, urea phosphate, potassium phosphate,... -, potassium - potassium sulfate, potassium chloride,... ·They are designed to release essential nutrients (N, P, K) quickly and directly, so that they are immediately assimilated by the roots ·In indoor photoperiodic or autoflowering cannabis plant cultivation, with a cultivation duration of about 3-4 months, they are not the most suitable option because of the fact that at the dose required to obtain successful flowering and large, dense buds with many trichomes: • An accumulation of salts occurs in the substrate, altering its pH, blocking the absorption of numerous nutrients by the roots, and ultimately destroying the root hairs. It is easy to overfeed plants, which causes nutritional imbalances and salt "burn," resulting in brown leaf tips, curled leaves, and in severe cases, the death of the plant. BK Seeds offers cannabis growers a unique fertilizer/biostimulant for each phase of cannabis cultivation, containing everything the plant needs in each of these phenological stages, and maximizing its health and yield: ·BALA: Fertilizer/biostimulant for rooting and vegetative growth ·FLORI: Fertilizer/biostimulant for pre-flowering and flower genesis ·PETA-GROS: Fertilizer/biostimulant for bud fattening In these three fertilizers/biostimulants from BK Seeds , the primary macronutrients (N, P, K) and secondary macronutrients (Ca, Mg, S), as well as the micronutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu, Co, B, Mo,...) of the "fertilizer part", are found as "semi-organic compounds", and the enzymes, non-hormonal signaling molecules, esterified provitamins and antioxidants that make up the "biostimulant part" are stabilized with organic ligands 26. CANNABIS VARIETIES FOR COLD CLIMATES BK Seeds offers cannabis varieties that grow, flower, and fatten their buds at low temperatures: Photoperiodic Autoflowering FCL x (K-Mintz x Ruderalis indica) Runtz x Ruderalis Indica Shimo x (K-Mintz x Rudelaris Indica) Permanent Marker x Rudelaris Indica Gary Payton x (K-Mintz x Ruderalis Indica) Tropicana Cookies x Rudelaris Indica FCL x (Oreoz x Rudelaris Indica) Cereal Milk x Ruderalis Indica FCL x (Runtz x Ruderalis indica) Apple Fritter x Rudelaris Indica Shimo (Runtz x Rudelaris Indica) Biscotti x Ruderalis Indica The temperature parameters at which these cannabis varieties become metabolically active are: • Vegetative development: From 5ºC • Flowering/fattening/ripening: From 10ºC

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